Technologies
Google Pixel Buds 2A Review: A Sound Choice for Pixel Users
The $129 Pixel Buds 2A don’t seem to vary much from Google’s flagship Pixel Buds Pro 2, but there are some key differences. Are they a good deal?
Pros
- Lightweight design with comfortable, secure fit
- $100 less (list price) than Pixel Buds Pro 2, they feature the same strong sound quality and look the same in your ears
- Smaller charging case with solid build quality and a replaceable battery
- Decent noise canceling
Cons
- Not everybody will get a tight seal with the included ear tips
- Missing some features found in the Pixel Buds Pro 2 and performance is a step behind
- Though mostly appealing, they don’t necessarily rise above the competition in this price range
Like Samsung’s «fan-edition» FE products, Google’s A series models are more budget-friendly, leaving off a few features and a premium design element or two while not delivering quite the performance.
Case in point: Google’s Pixel Buds 2A ($129, £129, AU$239), which are essentially a «light» version of Google’s excellent flagship Pixel Buds Pro 2 ($229). They look pretty similar to their step-up sibling and serve up very similar sound quality, but they look and feel a tad cheaper and don’t offer the same noise-canceling or voice-calling performance.
Many people may find the trade-offs are worth the savings, but I can’t tell you that the Pixel Buds 2A, while appealing earbuds overall, truly rise above the competition in this price range.
Read more: Best Wireless Earbuds of 2025
Google says the Pixel Buds 2A’s design was «inspired» by the Pixel Buds Pro 2’s design, and at first glance, I had a tough time figuring out what’s different about them.
While the Pixel Buds 2A are also powered by Google’s Tensor A1 chip, they’re missing a microphone in each bud (they have two mics per bud while the Buds Pro 2 have three). The Buds 2A also leave out wireless charging, a voice accelerometer, head tracking for spatial audio and a ringtone speaker in the case for Find My Device. They do add the ability to replace the battery in their charging case — and that new charging case is smaller than the Pixel Buds Pro 2’s case.
Though the Buds 2A weigh exactly the same as the Buds Pro 2 (4.7 grams) and also have 11mm drivers, their battery life is rated for an hour less — seven hours instead of eight with noise canceling on. They also feature Silent Seal 1.5 for noise canceling instead of Silent Seal 2.0, which presumably means their noise canceling isn’t quite as good.
Here’s a full list of the differences between the two earbuds that I found.
How the Google Pixel Buds 2A are different from the Pixel Buds Pro 2
- Two microphones per bud instead of three
- No wireless charging (there is a ringtone speaker in the case for Find Hub)
- No voice accelerometer to help detect when you’re talking
- No Conversation Detection feature that automatically lowers volume when you speak and activates transparency mode so you can have a conversation
- No motion-detecting accelerometer and gyroscope (no head tracking for spatial audio)
- Silent Seal 1.5 for noise canceling instead of Silent Seal 2.0
- Up to seven hours of battery life instead of eight (with noise canceling on)
- The charging case is about 20% smaller, weighing 47.6 grams (with earbuds inside) instead of 65 grams
- Made out of 41% recycled materials instead of 24%
Similar fit and same eartips as the Pixel Buds Pro 2
The two models fit similarly, with a stability wing on each bud and a twist-to-fit design. The buds are lightweight and compact, and should fit most ears well. But I did have some trouble getting a tight seal with the Buds Pro 2’s included eartips (I ended up using my own tips), and the same thing happened with the Buds 2A.
The shape of the included eartips is a little too conical for my ears, and the lack of a good seal affected both sound quality and noise-canceling performance.
Since I review a lot of earbuds, I have dozens of eartips sitting around, and I was able to find a set that got me a tight seal. I should point out that the post or nozzle on the buds is pretty wide, so only a limited number of eartips from my collection fit on the buds. But once I got the right tips on, the buds stayed in my ears securely, and I was able to run with them without a problem. They’re IP54 splash-proof and dust-resistant.
Pixel Buds 2A’s sound is a strong point
To my ears, the sound quality of the Pixel Buds 2A and Pixel Buds Pro 2 seems very similar, which should be the case since they both have the same 11mm drivers, the same redesigned acoustic chamber for improved treble performance and the same Tensor A1 chip.
I’ve been using Spotify’s new «lossless» audio streaming quality for playback and was generally impressed with the sound quality. The sound is relatively open and well-balanced, with the bass and treble accentuated only slightly, while the mids are only a touch recessed. (You can tweak the profile with a five-band equalizer in the Pixel Buds app.) The buds sound pretty dynamic, with good energy in the bass and some sizzle in the treble.
I thought the Pixel Buds 2A could sound slightly more refined and accurate, but they’re not boring to listen to, and their sound should appeal to most people. Also, I mostly avoided any listening fatigue over longer listening sessions.
That said, when I compared their sound to that of Samsung’s Galaxy Buds 3 FE, which retail for $150, I slightly preferred the sound of the latter. Their sound is slightly cleaner, smoother and more even-keeled — and slightly mellower overall. The Galaxy Buds 3 FE have a single 11mm dynamic driver, while the step-up Galaxy Buds 3 Pro have a 10.5mm dynamic driver paired with a 6.5mm planar magnetic. Samsung’s done a good job tuning the Buds 3 FE.
While some people faulted the Pixel Buds Pro 2 for not supporting so-called high-resolution audio codecs like Sony’s LDAC and Qualcomm’s aptX Adaptive or Lossless (LDAC is more widely supported by Android phones), and the Pixel Buds 2A don’t support those codecs either, I don’t think it’s a big deal. We’re not exactly dealing with high-end equipment here that might allow you to hear a difference. Some people may feel differently, but I think the AAC codec is just fine.
Noise canceling is good, but not top-notch
As I said earlier, if you don’t get a tight seal, noise-canceling performance will be affected. We have a major HVAC unit running in our offices, pumping out air conditioning, and the Pixel Buds Pro 2 were able to almost completely muffle the unit’s sound. The Pixel Buds 2A also did a good job muffling the low rumble of the unit, but I definitely noticed that the Pixel Buds 2A didn’t reduce as much of the noise. The same was true outdoors on the streets of New York, with a wider range of frequencies.
There wasn’t a huge difference between the Buds 2A and Bud Pro 2, but the Buds Pro 2 were a little more effective at muffling the sound around me. I used the same eartips with both buds.
Particularly in the streets of New York, the noise-muffling capabilities of the Bose QuietComfort Ultra Earbuds (2nd Gen) and Apple AirPods Pro 3 were a level up from both the Buds 2 Pro and Buds 2A in their noise canceling.
The AirPods Pro 3’s transparency mode is also a tad more natural-sounding and the current gold standard for transparency. But Pixel Buds 2A’s transparency mode is respectable.
Voice-calling performance falls a little short
Apparently, having one less microphone and no voice accelerometer to help detect when you’re talking does have an impact on voice-calling performance. From my torture tests in the noisy streets of New York, it doesn’t appear to be as good as what you get with the Pixel Buds Pro 2, though it should be noted that to get optimal voice-calling performance, you need to use one of the newer Pixel phones to take advantage of the Super Wideband and Clear Calling features.
Callers did tell me that traffic noise was basically eliminated, but they could hear people’s voices in the background, and my voice warbled occasionally. They could also hear some wind noise, even though the microphones have a mesh covering them that’s supposed to help cut down wind noise.
Final thoughts on the Google Pixel Buds 2A
Aside from my inability to get a tight seal from the included earbuds, I don’t have any major gripes with the Pixel Buds 2A. I liked how they sounded and felt in my ears once I got some tips that fit. While they look and feel a tad cheaper than the Pixel Buds Pro 2 and are missing some of those buds’ features, they look very similar and have a smaller charging case with a replaceable battery and slightly larger stability wings that should help you get a secure fit. They also have Google’s hands-free Gemini voice assistant, stereo spatial audio and multipoint Bluetooth pairing.
How good a value they end up being will largely depend on their street price. The Pixel Buds Pro 2 list for $229 but generally sell for around $190 and are currently $169 for Prime Day. They seem to have followed the street pricing of Apple’s AirPods Pro 2, since they were essentially Google’s answer to the AirPods Pro 2 when they shipped in September 2024. (It’s unclear when the newer AirPods Pro 3’s price will dip below $200.)
Given the past pricing history of Google earbuds, including the previous Pixel Buds A-Series, which didn’t have active noise canceling and were listed for $100 but typically sold for around $80 or less, one would look to buy the Pixel Buds 2A at closer to $100.
While they don’t clearly rise above the competition in this price range, and I slightly prefer Samsung’s Galaxy Buds 3 FE, they’re mostly appealing earbuds for Android users — and Pixel users in particular — that will be even more enticing when they’re $20 to $30 less.
Google Pixel Buds 2A key specs
- IP54 dust-resistant and splash proof (case is IPX4 splash proof)
- Weight: 4.7 grams per bud
- Bluetooth 5.4
- Google Tensor A1
- Custom-designed 11mm dynamic speaker driver
- Active noise cancellation with Silent Seal 1.5
- Transparency mode
- Active in-ear pressure relief
- Bluetooth Super Wideband
- Battery life: Up to 7 hours with noise canceling on, with an additional 20 hours in the case
- Battery in charging case is replaceable
- Clear Calling
- Wind-blocking mesh covers
- Two microphones per bud
- Hands-free Gemini voice assistant
- Capacitive touch (tap) sensors for music, calls and voice-assistant controls
- IR proximity sensor for in-ear detection to play and pause automatically
- Hall Effect sensor for case open and close detection
- Ringtone speaker in the case for Find Hub
- USB-C charging
- Colors: iris (purple) and hazel (black)
- Price: $129, £129, AU$239
Technologies
MacOS Now Has a Native Gemini AI App
Get faster access to some of Gemini’s best features without switching tabs.
Gemini is getting a native MacOS app so that you have a faster way to talk to Google’s AI chatbot, bringing access to some of its best features with just a couple of clicks.
Artificial intelligence is becoming more ingrained in everyday life, and companies are trying to make it easier than ever to access. On smartphones, AI is already just a button press away, but for desktops, LLMs like Google’s Gemini have been restricted to web applications.
With the new app, Gemini is available via a simple keyboard shortcut.
If you’ve got a MacBook, you can access Gemini at any time by pressing Option and Space on the keyboard, without having to switch tabs or open another window.
Gemini’s best features, like Nano Banana image generation, video and music generation, are also just a few clicks away.
Much like you can do with the Gemini mobile app, the new MacOS app will let you share context from a window instantly so you can get insight on the content you’re viewing. Google says this will also work with local files on your computer and isn’t limited to web pages.
The free, native app is available now for all users on MacOS 15 and up. Google says this is just the beginning and that it’s building the foundation for a «personal, proactive and powerful desktop assistant.»
The app can be downloaded at gemini.google/mac.
Technologies
I Wore the Whoop Band and the Apple Watch for Months and Found the Best Fit
The Whoop band won’t tell you the time, but it might change the way you work out. Here’s who should wear which.
I put off testing the Whoop band for six years. It’s a screenless fitness tracker built for serious athletes, and the sheer volume of training metrics always felt a little intimidating to me as a mere mortal.
The Apple Watch, on the other hand, is like that approachable friend who speaks to you on your level — much more my speed, six years ago.
But after seeing how many Whoop owners love the band, it was time to confront what intimidated me and see if it could outperform my Apple Watch Series 11. Two months later, the Whoop has transformed the way I work out and surfaced insights about my own body that weren’t on my radar before. Don’t mistake this for a breakup story — I’m not ditching my Apple Watch, yet.
The wearable space is evolving rapidly, with AI opening up the possibility of finally turning years’ worth of raw health and fitness data into actual advice. The standout smartwatches and trackers are now built around AI health coaches, proactive longevity features and metrics that respond visibly when you make the right changes.
As wearable sensors become more capable and health information gets more complex, the stakes are higher. It’s more important than ever to understand what each device does and which one will give you the most relevant information. That’s why just comparing specs won’t cut it. To make this personal, I had to literally become a test subject and wear both the Whoop MG band and my Apple Watch Series 11 long enough to unlock every single feature.
Comparing the Whoop band to an Apple Watch is like comparing a motorcycle to a minivan. They’re two different beasts that just happen to drive on the same street (your wrist). Health tracking is the main event for the Whoop, and likely the reason you’re considering it, whereas on the Apple Watch, it’s just one of the items on the menu. In an ideal world, you’d get both, but for this comparison, I’ll focus on the health features.
The price to play
The Whoop has two immediate red flags for me. WTF is this name? I’ve never answered so many «the what?» questions when asked what’s on my wrist. But that’s a superficial me-problem.
On the surface, the Apple Watch Series 11 costs more: $400 for the 42mm Wi-Fi model. The Whoop MG is $360. But that’s not a one-time payment. The Whoop band itself is just a bonus; what you’re really paying for is a subscription model that ranges from $199-359 yearly. The plan’s price determines which band model you get and what metrics you unlock.
Whoop subscription plans
| Plan name | Band included | Price per year | Battery life | Key features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| One | Whoop 4.0 | $199 | 5 days | Core metrics: vitals and training scores |
| Peak | Whoop 5.0 | $239 | 14 days | Adds aging insights (Healthspan) |
| Life | Whoop MG | $359 | 14 days | Adds ECG and AFib detection |
Not everyone’s willing to commit to yet another subscription, and if you’re in it for the long haul, you could end up spending more than the cost of the Apple Watch. But the bigger filter might be compatibility: The Whoop is the only device compatible with both iOS and Android. The Apple Watch is locked to the iPhone only.
First impressions and a Whoop THONG?!
The fact that I’d never worn a Whoop band before gives the Apple Watch an unfair advantage, especially since it has a screen; the Whoop doesn’t. I’m used to glancing down at my wrist for a time check, so seeing something occupy space on my wrist that didn’t tell time was genuinely infuriating.
Whereas the Whoop doesn’t present any data on the actual band, the Apple Watch shows you the time, weather forecast, tides, stock price and more. You control which notifications you receive, but it demands your attention throughout the day, from stand reminders to Slack alerts. You can also use it as a wallet or a camera remote, making it more like a mini version of your iPhone that just happens to be watching out for your health.
I can see the Whoop’s lack of screen as an asset for minimalists who don’t want the noise. While it was easy to forget I was wearing it, the band doesn’t exactly fade into the background like a smart ring does. The Whoop’s sensor alone is almost the size of the Apple Watch’s screen, but has a thicker profile, which makes it bulkier when wearing to bed.
You can also camouflage the device more easily since the band sits over the sensor. Whoop offers a range of clasp and band materials, and even a $20 third-party starlight gray band made it feel more subtle on my wrist than the original black. The Apple Watch also has a wide selection of bands, but the screen is always front and center.
The Apple Watch is also mostly relegated to the wrist. The Whoop is more versatile in that it can take readings from different parts of your body, including your chest and lower back. That can be useful for athletes who can’t wear anything on their limbs or for amputees. Whoop even sells garments to hold the sensor in place, including a thong, though I still can’t wrap my mind around wearing any device below the belt; I’m clearly not the target audience. The only alternative I’d realistically use is the arm or bicep band for sleep.
Suffice to say, you won’t get that range of wear with the Apple Watch.
Similar metrics, different execution
The Whoop is built for long-term data analysis, so saying the band’s tracking strategy was a slow burn is an understatement. It takes at least a week to unlock most metrics, and two weeks of 24/7 wear to see the rest. The Apple Watch has real-time metrics that you can start using as soon as you strap it on.
Even once you unlock the data, the Whoop always uses your phone as the middleman to deliver it. But the app earns its keep by nudging you (via notifications) whenever a new metric is unlocked, or if something needs your attention. The Apple Watch also notifies you of trends in the iPhone’s Health app, but those nudges are less frequent, so I end up forgetting to look.
After two weeks of wear, the Whoop finally paid off
On the surface, the Apple Watch and Whoop measure similar biomarkers: heart rate, VO2 max, temperature, sleep and menstrual cycle. The difference is in what they do with that data. Apple gives you the numbers and some light guidance, but mostly leaves the interpretation up to you. Whoop collects the data and runs it through a single lens: How does this affect your training?
Sleep, heart rate and even your menstrual cycle phase get translated into a daily recovery score (how ready your body is to perform). Paired with a strain meter that tracks how hard you’ve pushed yourself, Whoop turns abstract data into a directive. On high-recovery, low-strain days, it pushes me to go harder. But the realities of parenting and work schedules don’t always align with my recovery score, and no amount of nudges can help me with that. There were times when a low recovery score convinced me I was too depleted for a hard workout (even though I could probably have pushed through). On other days, the score looked good, but my body was screaming the opposite.
The Apple Watch’s training load score measures workout effort, but it doesn’t tell you what to do with that info. It’s largely self-reported. Unlike the Whoop, which puts the strain score front and center in the app, Apple Watch training load trends are somewhat hidden in workout pages, so I don’t often remember to use it as guidance.
Both devices also track long-term trends such as VO2 max, or the measure of how efficient your body is at delivering oxygen to your muscles (a good indicator of cardiovascular health). Apple calls it Cardio Fitness score and surfaces it in the Health app. Whoop uses this metric (and other biomarkers) to calculate your «Whoop age,» how old your heart appears to be relative to your actual age, as well as your rate of aging. Not exactly a scientific term, but the effect is genius. Vanity and pride will get you invested in this number fast (at least it did for me).
Whoop’s health coach actually gets it
The shining star, though, is the Whoop AI coach. As a certified AI health coach skeptic, I never thought I’d be praising one, but here we are. The key is that it doesn’t require you to interact with it; Whoop AI just pops up on its own when it has something important to flag in the app or when you summon it. Two days before my period, it warned me that workouts might feel harder because of hormonal changes (spot on) and gave me concrete workout alternatives for those days when my recovery was low.
After an all-out 5K run, Whoop’s AI coach told me to take it easy for the next few days and not to push myself that hard more than once a week. In my black-and-white brain (before using the Whoop), every workout had to be all-out or it was simply not worth it. The coach pointed out that repeatedly spiking at peak heart rate might be working against my training. I did some non-AI-aided research myself and confirmed the AI coach was right. While raising your heart rate to peak occasionally can train your heart, sustained effort at this level increases your risk of injury.
The AI coach also adjusted my recommended bedtime based on strain, prior sleep debt (accumulation of sleep deprivation) and nightly patterns to optimize recovery. I don’t follow it most days, but the fact that it’s personalized and dynamic makes me less likely to ignore it than just the Apple Watch’s static bedtime reminder.
The closest Apple equivalent to Whoop’s AI coach is Workout Buddy, an in-ear trainer that motivates you in real time and contextualizes your effort against your data history. For runners like me, that kind of screen-free guidance is essential and it’s where the Apple Watch pulls ahead. I rely on heart rate zones, pace and distance cues in real time, and without a screen or in-ear guidance, there’s no way to do the same on the Whoop. I can surface live stats and strain in the Whoop app, but that still means staring at my phone when I should be watching the trail in front of me. Even Whoop’s workout summaries don’t include variables such as distance or pace.
Where Whoop holds its own is workout detection. Other screen-free wearables tend to miss lower-intensity sessions, but Whoop’s auto-detection has been spot on. The Apple Watch can detect some workouts automatically, but it’s less consistent and I usually end up starting them myself.
The CNET accuracy test
It’s one thing for these wearables to nail translating workouts into data, but now I had to make sure that data was accurate. I’ve run multiple accuracy tests on the Apple Watch, including a recent 30-mile cross-device testing blitz where it scored highest in heart rate tracking against five other smartwatches, outpacing even a Garmin watch.
I ran (literally) the same test on the Whoop using the Polar H10 chest strap for heart rate control.
After three miles, the workout summary showed accurate results. It was only two beats below my peak heart rate (179 Whoop vs. 181 Polar), and two beats below my average HR. Workout summaries only tell part of the story, missing all the peaks and valleys that happen in between. That’s why I prefer to dig into the raw data. Polar makes it easy to export the second-by-second HR data into a spreadsheet, but getting that data off the Whoop app proved impossible. Even if there happens to be a workaround, it will likely require sleuth-level digging. For an athlete-focused wearable, that was extremely disappointing. Getting your heart rate data off the Apple Watch isn’t easy, but it is possible either by downloading your entire history or (as I’d recommend) downloading this third-party app.
Health and safety features
For all the fancy metrics and AI coaching, the Apple Watch still pulls ahead on raw health and safety features. Both devices have an ECG feature and AFib detection, though on the Whoop, you’re paying for the top-tier Life membership to get them. The Apple Watch has FDA-cleared hypertension alerts that flag signs of high blood pressure, sleep apnea detection and high and low heart-rate alerts. The Whoop can also give blood pressure estimates, but that first has to be calibrated with a traditional cuff and is intended only as a wellness feature (it’s not clinically validated).
Where there’s no comparison at all is with emergency features. The Apple Watch has emergency SOS, fall detection, satellite connectivity (on 5G models) and crash detection that automatically contacts emergency services and your chosen contacts if something goes wrong.
It can also ping your phone, which may not seem like it’s health-related, but is certainly a mental health boon for me in the sense that it prevents me from losing my mind when I can’t find it.
Battery life is a no-brainer
Battery life isn’t even a competition. While the Apple Watch struggled to make it a day and a half on a charge, the Whoop powered through the two-week mark as promised without breaking a sweat. That means I’m far more likely to wear it around the clock. My patchwork charging strategy with the Apple Watch regularly leaves me with a dead battery before bed — or worse, before a workout. Does exercise even count if it wasn’t tracked?
The Whoop doesn’t even have to be taken off to juice back up, since the puck holds its own charge and snaps on for wireless top-ups. Unless you’re wearing it in your thong, of course, in which case I truly hope it’s coming off between washes.
The fact that it doesn’t have to come off my wrist means I’m more consistent at tracking my sleep. Since there are no gaps in my sleep data, all other data tied to it is more reliable, including menstrual tracking (which uses basal body temperature during sleep to detect ovulation). I’ve been tracking my cycle for 10 years and know it well enough to say the Whoop has been spot-on with its estimates. The Apple Watch also tracks my menstrual cycle, but calculates ovulation retroactively if you’ve been consistent with sleep tracking (which is when it measures temperature changes). That consistency has been harder for me on the Apple Watch, so my ovulation estimates aren’t as accurate on the Apple watch. If you want a tracker you can truly set and forget about on both the notification and charging front, Whoop is your pick.
Apple Watch vs. Whoop: Bottom line
Despite being a longtime Apple Watch wearer, I’m not itching to take the Whoop off my wrist. It’s one of the few wearables I’ve worn for 14 consecutive days that hasn’t irritated my skin. I’d consider keeping both if it weren’t for Whoop’s subscription cost and my fear of financial commitment. Currently, you can get the One membership for $149 ($50 off).
The Whoop band has given me valuable insights about my training habits and flagged trends about my own body I hadn’t even put together myself — hey there, hormonal fatigue. The AI coach gets sharper the longer it knows you, which means I’m actually invested in sticking with it and following its advice.
But realistically, I’m still in the thick of raising young kids while holding down a demanding job, and fitness has to take a back seat. Sticking with the Whoop would be like paying for a fancy gym membership and only using it twice a month. For anyone in a different stage of life looking to level up their fitness and optimize for peak performance (without real-time guidance), the Whoop is likely a worthy investment. I’ll join your ranks soon enough.
Maybe the fact that I’m paying for it would hold me accountable, and I’d find a way to prioritize the guidance more often? Or maybe our timing’s just off? For now, I’ll stick with the dependable friend, the Apple Watch, who doesn’t drop knowledge at every turn, but speaks my language and shows up when I need it — whether it’s pointing out I’m running late, or letting me dictate a text while wrangling a toddler.
Technologies
Smartphone Prices Are Still Climbing. Here Are 3 Ways to Get Around That
Commentary: Tech prices won’t come down in the near future, but you can still come out ahead when shopping for a new phone.
In today’s market, your smartphone might be the only thing in your pocket that’s gaining value. While we’re used to electronics getting cheaper as they age, a combination of RAM shortages, shifting tariffs and inflation is forcing months-old smartphones to get unprecedented mid-life price hikes of up to $200.
Meanwhile, new phones that usually get major upgrades each year aren’t seeing meaningful quality-of-life improvements, yet we’re still paying a premium. The new 256GB Samsung Galaxy S26 starts at $900, raising the entry point for the company’s flagship phone line. The 256GB model of last year’s Galaxy S25 also got a price bump, as Samsung quietly increases the online cost of its foldables and other devices.
It’s not just Samsung. Motorola inflated the price of several of its Moto G models only a few months after launch, even though its devices are geared toward cost-conscious consumers.
The sticker shock in the mobile world is part of a wider contagion affecting the entire electronics market, including the PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X/S consoles. But while pricey is the new industry standard, you don’t have to accept it. By getting a little creative and broadening your criteria, you can still secure a great phone without cramping your budget.
1. Avoid buying the newest phone
Most of us buy a new device to extend our phone’s battery life, get more storage or upgrade our camera. But over the past two years, many phones have only seen small improvements in these areas. Phones from one or two years ago have comparable cameras and batteries, and offer increased storage options, all while getting new features through software updates.
Samsung’s Galaxy S26 seems particularly stagnant this year. In his Galaxy S26 review, CNET Managing Editor David Lumb didn’t find any particular upgrades that would justify the phone’s higher starting price, aside from a storage bump and marginally improved battery capacity. While the phone’s cameras likely benefit from its newer, faster processor, Samsung’s still using the same camera suite dating back to the Galaxy S23: a 50-megapixel wide, 12-megapixel ultrawide, and 10-megapixel telephoto with 3x optical zoom.
If you’re coming from a much older phone like Samsung’s Galaxy S21 (or earlier), you might benefit from upgrading to a less recent model, like the Samsung Galaxy S24 or S25. You can also save money by shopping with retailers rather than buying directly from Samsung.
You could also try to simply extend the life of your current phone. It might be more cost-effective to replace your phone’s battery, backup older photos and videos to free up storage and try out new ways of taking photos rather than relying on buying a whole new device.
2. Make sure a cheaper phone gets software updates
I review a lot of lower-cost phones, and a major way many of them skimp is by offering only two or three years of software and security updates.
As prices rise, especially for devices costing $500 or less, you might end up purchasing a moderately priced phone that shouldn’t be used past its third year, which doesn’t give you much longevity. When a manufacturer isn’t actively providing security updates, that phone becomes more vulnerable to data exploits.
For instance, while I quite like the new $500 Moto G Stylus, I knocked it for only having a three-year commitment for security updates when other companies are providing at least double that. I have similar issues with RedMagic, which makes gaming-focused phones at a value price, but the company’s software and security support is also limited to three years. Likewise, TCL’s phones have rock-bottom prices, but the company only pledges two years of support.
If hardware prices are ticking up, I’d like to see phone-makers focus on improving device lifespan, especially since they know customers are less likely to spend $500 on a new phone every two to three years.
Samsung and Google’s under-$500 phones often offer superior software and security support. Samsung, for one, guarantees its Galaxy A phones six years of software updates, and the $499 Pixel 10A gets seven years. While I had issues with the Pixel 10A’s strong similarity to the Pixel 9A (it retained the same processor, camera and battery), when the Pixel 9A is discounted to $399, you’ll get a quality, more affordable phone with six years of software updates.
3. Hit the refurbished market
Apart from eyeing sales for older devices, you can check out refurbished phones offered directly by Apple, Google and Samsung. While these phones are technically used, they’re fixed up by their manufacturer and sold like new. When I browse these stores, I don’t usually see dramatic discounts, but the devices are always marked below their original price.
If you’re particularly cost-conscious, the used phone market is worth considering. When I tried out a used iPhone 13 Mini, I discovered that it’s critical to have a generous return policy so the phone’s battery life and condition work for you. These phones will show visible wear, and their batteries may be degraded from use by their prior owner.
However, used devices are often much cheaper than a comparably priced new phone and could even be worth the extra expense of replacing the battery and getting a case.
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